Petai

Petai, also known as stink beans or bitter beans, are legumes native to Southeast Asia — think Malaysia, Indonesia, southern Thailand, and the Philippines, where they grow in long, twisted pods dangling from tall tropical trees. Crack a pod open and you'll find a row of bright green, flat, almond-shaped beans nestled inside. They're prized for their strong, unmistakable aroma, which most people describe as sulfurous or garlicky. That smell is the reason for the "stink bean" nickname, and yes, much like asparagus, it can linger on your breath and follow you the next day.

The taste is where petai wins people over, though it's admittedly an acquired one. It's slightly bitter and earthy, with a faint sweetness underneath and a grassy, almost nutty edge. Raw, the beans are firm and crunchy with a snap similar to a fresh broad bean; cooked, they turn softer and creamier while their pungency mellows into something rounder and more savory. If you've never had them, the first bite is a bit of a jolt — but for the many home cooks across Southeast Asia who grew up with them, that funky, lingering flavor is exactly the point.

Botanically petai is a legume, though in the kitchen it's usually treated more like a vegetable — a bold, aromatic one you cook down with chili and aromatics rather than a bean you'd simmer plain. Fresh pods are the most common form, but you'll also find the shelled beans sold frozen, brined in jars, or vacuum-packed, which makes them easier to keep on hand year-round.